I'll just jump in and say, follow the mixing instructions on the bag to get best results. You want it to be creamy but still hold sharp peaks and remember that you'll need to let the mortar rest for minutes and then re-mix it before using.
This is called "slaking" slay-king and it allows the powder to become completely hydrated and improves bonding strength and lengthens pot life. Thanks for all the advice!! I give it to you guys that do this as a full time job. Thanks again for the input. All times are GMT The time now is PM. User Name. Remember Me? This makes it an unsuitable choice for floors subject to heavy abuse, like those within a garage or warehouse.
However, slate remains a great choice for kitchens and bathrooms. Like other natural stone flooring, mined slate is a costly investment to purchase and install within the home.
Experienced do-it-yourselfers can save a substantial amount of money by forgoing a call to the professionals and laying the floor on their own, leaving the bulk of the budget for the cost of materials themselves.
If you do choose professional installation, know that the materials are the least expensive part of the cost of your new slate floors. The cost of labor typically runs two or three times the price of the tile, because the contractor has to prepare the substrate in multiple layers. Thoughtful patterns in the tiled floor will also increase the bill. Before you commit to slate tile, take a closer look at your floor system to be sure it is adequate to handle the new flooring.
Slate is both heavy and brittle, so sponginess or bounce in your existing floor could result in cracked or popped tiles—not at all what you want to see in such a big investment. Your floor system, which consists of the framing and the subfloor, must be structurally sound and rigid enough to support the heavy weight of the slate tile. Here, we look at the different types of mortar and their applications. Not all mortar is the same. Mortar comes in four different types, each of which is mixed using a different ratio of sand, hydrated lime, and cement.
The different types of mortar are denoted by the letters: M, S, N, and O. Different mixtures provide different characteristics, such as compressive strength, flexibility, and bonding properties.
The best type of mortar for a particular project depends on the various design elements and the application. The highest-strength mortar 2, psi is Type M mortar, which is only used where considerable compressive strength is needed.
This mortar is used for below-grade applications involving extreme pressure or lateral loads, such as foundations and retaining walls. Type M mortar is made using three parts Portland cement, one part hydrated lime, and 12 parts sand. Type S mortar is made with two parts Portland cement, one part hydrated lime, and nine parts sand. Type N mortar mix is a medium-strength mortar psi recommended for exterior and above-grade walls and interior load-bearing walls.
Type N mortar withstands high heat, low temperatures, and severe weather and is considered to be a general-purpose mix. Type N mortar is made using one part Portland cement, one part lime, and six parts sand. Type O mortar mix is low-strength psi mortar used in non-load-bearing interior projects.
This mortar has very limited exterior use. Type O mortar is made using one part Portland cement, two parts hydrated lime, and nine parts sand. This allows you to arrange the pattern of the slate and also to sort it.
Mix the slate tiles from several boxes to get a pleasing color mixture. Many slate tiles can be installed with either side up; flip the tiles over if you do not like the color on one side.
Slate tiles are often not even in thickness; play around with placing thin tiles next to thin tiles and thick tiles next to thick tiles. Tiles that are too thick or thin or that are thick on one edge and thin on the other can be used as cut tiles on the perimeter.
If you are installing on the patio, pool deck or another ground application, it helps to lay the tiles out, then pick them up one at a time to lay the mortar.
Adjust the amount of mortar you place beneath each stone based on the thickness of the slate. Place any extra mortar directly onto the back of each tile. This will allow you to control just where the extra thickness goes, so tiles with thin areas can be built up. Use a level to ensure the tiles are even.
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